The HG Burger is a decent hamburger, its lacklusterness isn’t so much derived from its average burger taste balance, but more so from its abysmal proportions; this burger, the Mr. Magoo of hamburgers, small and expensive, is comprised of cumbersome shapes that result in an uncomfortable construction. From a gold restaurant this sure is a bronze burger.
At first, awkwardly spread out, this slight burger is met with a troubled feeling; as you gander at all the ingredients, ready to build the hamburger, you won’t be entirely sure how exactly they’ll all fit together. The greens, in desperate need of some fine slicing, lack a certain elegance; a gaucheness that becomes clearer as you forge this short stocky hamburger – the tomato and onion, too thick for the good of the burger taste balance, are likely to become unlucky characters taken out before the finale.
The patty, which has the right amount of herbiness to complement the burger taste balance without overwhelming, has an acceptable beef taste. Still, juicy splotches followed by a dry center become a puzzling revelation; to add to the perplexity, the patty is shaped like a freak’n oval! Molded too high and too thin, it’s proportioned well enough to, one, not cover the whole assigned bun area, leaving the last bite as bread and soaked up juices, and two, an uneasy overly extended first bite. Due to pork fat in the mix, the restaurant won’t serve a medium rare patty – you can ask for medium, but it doesn’t really matter since it’ll arrive well done.
If there is a bit of gold to be found in this burger, it’s the white truffle mayo; your taste buds will certainly fondle and appreciate the thick cream buttery texture that accentuates both the burger and the fries. The bun also makes a pleasant sweetish addition, a certain softness in the innards with a firm surround keep the bun robust; sadly, it doesn’t make the hamburger any less of a struggle to hold and devour. The one single solitary half piece of apple wood smoked bacon was good and crunchy; and the Gouda cheese with a strong visual presence, passes on pretty mildly. The fries are good.
In the end, some ingredients do a good job while most underperform; which is too bad, because for a burger that is priced at 228.00 HKD one wold expect that everything would at least be bearing on golden… at least they didn’t skimp out on the truffle mayo.Gold by Harlan Goldstein Level 2 LKF Tower 33 Wyndham Street Lan Kwai Fong Central Hong Kong +852 2869 9986